Overview

This kit was designed for just about anyone interested in building a beautiful surfboard with their own hands. Compared to our ​Original Construction HomeGrown Kits made from all cedar, this kit is designed to assemble using far fewer tools and shop fixtures. ​Because it is designed and cut with exact precision, it is much easier to assemble than our traditional kits and also generates less ​waste and dust for homebuilders working in confined spaces.

While striving for perfection is great, please keep in mind that this kit is designed for novice woodworkers and as such, it’s expected ​that ‘Good’ is good enough. Due to the bending limits of plywood, it can be very challenging to get all the parts tight to the point of ​where seams are invisible. Aim for perfection, but don’t sacrifice the good for the perfect. In the end, when glassed and polished, ​the board will be a beautiful work of art as well as a fully functional performance surfboard.

Some features of this kit:

• We’ve designed this kit to assemble with minimal tools and by someone with ​few woodworking skills. No rocker table is necessary and bar clamps can be ​left at the store.
• All parts are precision cut on our CNC machine and, when fit and glued ​together properly, will form a beautiful and functional surfboard.
• The extra-tall "Ply-Beam" keel acts like a stiff beam down the center of the ​board. Once fitted with plywood bottom planks, the keel is kept straight, ​creating an I-Beam like structure, locking the rocker in shape.
• Special inscriptions, depth gauges and notches in the keel and frames provide ​helpful tips and aid in the construction.
• The rails bands are made from cork and are layered, inscribed and custom cut ​to ensure the shape comes out as we designed it, even for a first timer. Each ​layer is soft enough to bend around the board without the need for heat or ​steam usually associated with tight bends.
• Kits with a center fin (Waterlog and Sapling) include a built-in fin, and all kits ​include a leash loop which alleviates the need to drill/router for that ​hardware.

The kit includes the following:

• FSC Certified Marine Grade Okume, ​precision cut:
• 3/16” Top and bottom planks, as well as ​internal stringers and railbands.
  
• ¼” Keel and frames.
  
• Internal templates
  
• Precision cut cork rail bands
• Cedar Frame Locks (1/4” x ¼” cedar strips)
• 15 Plywood strongbacks (5/16” x 5/8” ​strips)
• 1 bottle of Gorilla Wood Glue (or ​equivalent)
• 1 tube of Thickened Epoxy in Tube
• Glassing Supplies including fiberglass and ​epoxy

Cutting parts from their Plywood panels

NOTE: Leave cork rail bands aside for now. Also be sure to read through this entire ​section before starting. This will help ensure you understand the whole process.

1.Use a fine tooth saw, utility knife or jig saw to carefully ​cut all the tabs holding all of the parts in place. Keep in ​mind that parts can be fragile in this form. Do not stress ​the panels or you risk breaking layers off the plywood or ​tearing off puzzle joints. Keep the panel supported on a ​flat table as you work.

2. If the tabs are weak enough and you’re careful, you can ​gently fold and break the tabs and pop the parts out by ​hand.

3. But then you’ll want to go back and clean up the tabs ​with a utility knife afterwards. Use care handling the ​smaller parts such as the first and last frames when ​cutting the tabs away. These can be a little more fragile ​around the notches.The tabs should be fully removed and ​trimmed flush with the frame surface.

NOTE: The tabs on the outside outline of the planks or top and bottom of the keel sections ​do not need to be removed as they will be shaved away at a later step.

NOTE: Keep all excess plywood around till your finished building. It can be useful for glue ​pads and possible small repairs.

Assembling Bottom and Top Panels

Be sure to read through this entire section before ​starting. This will help ensure you understand the whole ​process. This step takes approximately 60 minutes

1. Lay out your bottom planks and test fit the ​puzzle joints to be sure they are tight and that ​the planks are flush top and bottom. You’ll ​notice that each panel is marked with a “Top 1” ​or “Top 2”. Be sure to line up the correct parts ​with their mates. Always keep the side with the ​inscriptions up. This will be the inside of the ​surfboard, so the inscriptions are hidden
   

2. Puzzle joints may require some gentle sanding with 120 grit sandpaper to remove any small burrs, allowing the joints to ​be flush. Try not to sand too much of the puzzle joint itself as it could result in a gap in the joint. Typically, once you remove ​any burrs with some very light sanding, you can put the planks on a hard surface, align the puzzle joints and gently tap them ​together with a rubber mallet (if using a hammer, put a block of wood on the planks so the hammer doesn’t dent the ​plywood). Ideally, the planks at the joint are even and smooth.

3. Cut a piece of fiberglass that will fully cover the joint, 3” wide should be fine, and that is an inch or so narrower than the ​width of the panel at the joint. It’s smart to also put some wax paper under the joints to keep any epoxy that makes its way ​through the joint from gluing the panel down to your work surface.

4. Mix up a little epoxy and ​glass the INSIDE (inscribed ​side) of the puzzle joint to ​ensure its strong and sealed ​from the inside. Take care ​not to let glass or resin ​extend or drip past the ​inside edge (straight line ​side) of the planks. If it ​does, and you need to clean ​it up or shave any way, you ​risk changing that line and ​creating a low point. This ​could eventually appear as ​a tiny gap between the ​plank edge and keel when ​it’s installed.

5. A lam coat is ​sufficient, no need to ​follow this up with a hot ​or gloss coat. Since this ​is the inside of the board, ​this glass job does not ​need to be super clean ​and smooth or glossy. If ​the glass does extend to ​the edges of the planks, ​you may need to gently ​sand the glass near the ​edges smooth so as to ​avoid any gaps where ​the planks come in ​contact with the outside ​rail bands.

NOTE: Do NOT join the left and right planks together. They will be applied to the boards frame as individual pieces on either side of the keel.

NOTE: The top planks get glued up in the same way, but can be done later while you’re waiting for other steps to dry.

Putting together the keel, stringers, and inner Rail Bands Puzzle Joints

Be sure to read through this entire section before starting. This will help ensure you understand the whole process. This step takes approximately 30 minutes

1. You’ll notice that the keel is “taller” than the ​board and is square or flat along its bottom ​edge. We designed this to act as a stiffener ​(like an I-Beam) to build the board around. ​The rocker is designed into the keel by way ​of the slots for the frames and rocker lines ​engraved into the keel. It is important to ​leave the keel tall and square at this time. ​Once the board is completely all assembled, ​you will cut away the excess keel to reveal ​the final rocker of the board
   

2. The keel is in two or three pieces with puzzle joints much like the bottom planks. Fit the ​puzzle joints together, sanding away any wood fibers that might hold it from coming ​together. Much like the planks, it can be helpful to put the pieces down on a hard surface, ​align the puzzle joints, and gently tap them with a hammer or mallet to force the puzzle ​joints together.

3. Do the same for the ​battens and rail bands ​taking care not to break ​any puzzle joints off as ​these parts are thinner ​and weaker. If they do ​break, don’t fret, you can ​easily glue the parts back ​together, and plywood ​pads on either side will ​hold it all together even if ​the puzzle joints are ​broken or missing ​entirely.

4. Once assembled, we like to glue some pads of wood ​(plywood, cedar, whatever you have) on either side of the ​puzzle joints of the keel to strengthen the joint. The pads just ​need to completely overlap the puzzle joints, however we’re ​only covering the middle of the keel that will be inside of the ​board. Take care not let the pads cross the area of the top or ​bottom planks. In other words, keep the pads no taller than ​the holes for the frames.

5. Since it is hard to reach the area of the keel with clamps, ​we like to use a couple dabs of hot glue in combination with ​any other wood glue to hold the pads while regular glue ​dries. If you have 5-minute epoxy, it’s also ok to just use that ​entirely for this step.

6. On the plywood railbands, only add pads on the inside of the joints. Outside pads would get in the way in future steps when we install cork rails.

7. On the battens, you can add pads on both sides of the puzzle joint.

Assembling the Frame

Be sure to read through this entire section before starting. This will help ensure you understand the whole process. This step takes approximately 2 hours

1.Sort out your frames and identify the numbers on each one. Frame 1 is closest to the nose of the board. Note that nose of the board is ​marked on the keel itself and each frame slot is also marked. Just match them and go!

2.Begin sliding frames through the notches in the keel until they are centered (note small double dog bone notches at center of each frame). ​It should be obvious which side of the frames is up, but if not, the notches are all in the top of the frames. If you’re doing this on a shaping ​stand, you can sit a couple frames on the stand, so the keel is running down the length of the stand in the notches for the board, so it’s not ​hitting anything. Slide each frame in until it’s centered. Don’t worry about things being too perfect and centered yet.

3. Next, note the frame ​numbers on your battens and ​begin sliding them into place ​with the appropriate frame. The ​half notches should slide right ​into place and the tops of the ​battens should be flush with ​the tops of the frames. Best to ​start with the inner battens and ​follow up with the outers. You ​may find that fiddling with one ​side can knock or lift the other ​side out of position. Don’t ​worry too much about this. It ​just takes a little time to slowly ​get each piece fitted together.

4. Identify the right and left plywood rail bands. They will say nose and tail. These rail bands extend from frame one back to the last frame.

5. Note that they do not run around the nose and tail. This are will be made up of solid cedar blocking which we'll add in the next step.

6. Note that there are tabs at most frame ends and corresponding notches in the rail bands, but not for the frames at the ends of the board. ​This is because the frame and rail band get too short to allow for notches. It would create a weak point in the parts.

7. Identify the middle of the bands and the frames that each notch aligns with and, with the rail band inscriptions facing in, begin sliding ​them onto each frame tab, slowly bending the rail bands around the outline of the board until you get to the second to last frame at both ​ends.

8. Note that keel might begin to bend and not stay straight. That is ok for now. We will use the plank ​panels in the next steps to ensure the keel, and therefore the outline, is straight and symmetrical.

9. Use small dabs of hot glue if you have it to keep the rail bands locked onto the frame end tabs. If ​you don’t have hot glue, it’s not essential that they be glued. Usually the fit is tight enough to keep the ​rail bands locked in place.

10. Now, take your cedar frame locks and begin by working on the side of the keel with the ​inscripted plank lines. Test fit them by sliding them down into the notches in each frame top ​alongside the keel. It’s ok if they are tight, you can force them in even if it scars the cedar a little bit. ​Snug is good. Typically, if one fits, they will all fit since the slots and the cedar material is very ​standardized. The frame locks will extend to every frame that has a notch to accept them. You can ​run them past the first and last frames, however they will need to end (now or later) at the last ​frames to make room for the nose and tail blocking. These frame locks will bend gently with the ​rocker and should form a fair curve from one frame to the next.

11. Now do the same on the other ​side. The frame locks ensure that ​the frames are centered and also ​provide some surface for the top ​planks to glue to along the keel.

12. Once both sides are in, use the ​small square piece of plywood ​marked Frame Lock Indicator (FLI) ​to be sure the heights are the same ​in each side. The top edge of the ​keel runs parallel to the rocker of ​the board. The FLI has a slot in it ​and it can be slid along the keel, ​pushing down, to ensure the frame ​locks are positioned correctly. As ​you slide the FLI along, draw a ​pencil line on the keel marking the ​top edge of the frame locks. This ​indicates where to add glue.

13. Once complete, pull them back out, and with Grizzly glue, add a small bead of glue just below the pencil line. Do this on both sides of the keel.

14. Now slide the frame locks back in the notches in each frame, working your way along the keel, push the FLI down on the keel into the slots in ​each frame, ensuring the frame locks are at their correct heights between the frame. Holding the FLI down, add a clamp or two in between each ​frame, squeezing the frame locks to the keel.

Glued in place ​and ready for ​next steps!

Tips & Tricks Videos For Assembling the Frame

Video- Assembling the Keel, Frames & Stringers

Video- Adding Plywood Railbands

Video- Adding Cedar Frame Locks

Attaching the bottom panels to the frame

1.First be sure you’re working on a shaping stand that is level. ​Once you glue the planks the frame, you will be “locking” the ​board into the shape of the stand. If the stand is wracked ​(twisted or not on the same plane), the board will be wracked. ​And that is not something you can shape out.

2. Use a level on each arm of the stand or if you don’t have ​one, you can ensure the stand is not wracked by using two flat ​pieces of wood. Place one on each arm of the stand and sight ​along the tops of each board. If the stand is wracked, the top ​of the boards won’t be parallel. Use shims under the stands ​legs to be sure the stand is not wracked. Remember, “level” is ​great but not crucial. We’re looking for zero twisting or ​wracking.

Be sure to read through this entire section before starting. This ​will help ensure you understand the whole process. This step ​takes approximately 2 hours

In this step we’ll be attaching the bottom panels to the frame. This is a big ​foundation setting step that helps lock the board into shape. We’ll dry fit the ​panels to the keel, clamping it all into place, then add filleting epoxy to each ​surface to band it together.

3. Take your bottom panels and identify the nose and tail. Also remember that any inscriptions into the panels should be showing up on the ​inside of your board.

4. Slide the planks under the frames and align the puzzle joint line with the inscription “plank scarf” on the keel. To do the opposite side, you ​can transfer the marking on the keel using a tape measure to the opposite side, or simply line up the nose or tail ends of the planks so they ​match the first side. Be sure the planks are snug against the side of the keel down its entire length.

5. Slide your strong backs under the panels and pass them through the ​holes under each frame. You may need to cut these strongbacks to length as ​you go. They should extend just beyond the planks and not much wider. ​Too long and they get in the way of clamps. Start in the middle, and as you ​cut, the remaining pieces should work for narrower parts of the board.

6. Starting in the middle of the board, once again push the panels as tight up ​against the keel as you can, and add spring clamps to each frame, pulling the ​strongbacks up and clamping them to the bottom panels. The clamp will be ​contacting the strongback and frame, and the planks will be pinched in ​between. This will bring the planks up to the rail bands. Keep an eye on the ​inner plank edge where it comes along the keel sides.

7. Work your way along the length of the board, from the middle out until you get to the second to last frame at each end. Do ​NOT add clamps to the first and last frames at this time. With each clamp, do your best to keep pushing the planks tight to the ​sides of the keel. This ensure the keel is straight and the outline of the board is symmetrical. The rail band should define a nice ​fluid outline as you clamp your way along.

8. Note: The rail band will not be lined up flush ​with the outline of the planks, it will be just inside ​and the excess planks will be cleaned up in a ​subsequent step.

9. Once you have a spring clamp at each frame ​around the board (leaving your board right side up ​to allow you to see how frames are contacting the ​planks) take your shims and begin sliding them ​under the strongbacks, pushing the plank panels ​up snugly to each frame. You don’t need to overdo ​this. Contact between the plank panels and frames ​is all you need, not a ton of pressure. Gently slide ​the wedges in place where you see a gap between ​planks and frames. If you see a space between the ​bottom and frame, add a wedge. If the panel is ​touching the frame, you’re in good shape.

10. Once the panels are in contact with each frame and are as tight as possible with the keel, you can begin adding epoxy to the joints.

11. Note: The ends of the planks past the last frames will not follow the rocker yet. That is ok. We’ll lift these areas in the next steps.

12. Using thickened epoxy, lay a small bead (a strong 1/8” in diameter) down along all corners where the planks contact the frames, keel and ​rail band. Do not worry about adding epoxy where the railband runs wide in the nose and tail.

13. Note: Do not epoxy the outside of the rail bands to bottom planks. We’ll be shaving away ​excess bottom planks later and any epoxy on the outside will make that harder.

14. Use a finger with a glove on, a popsicle stick or tongue depressor to spread the bead into ​a fillet like you would bathroom caulk. The thickened epoxy should form a ramp, joining ​the planks to the frame, rail bands and keel. This is much stronger than just a bead of epoxy.

15. As you approach the ends of the board, you will need to spend a little extra time dialing ​in the end frames, rail bands and bottom planks.

16. To get the bottom planks lifted to the last frame and into the proper final rocker, you’ll ​use the Rocker Lift Plates that came with your kit. There are three pieces of plywood, one ​that mimics the full shape of the nose, and two that make up both sides. Slide the full size ​piece through the slot in the keel. This becomes a base plate for pushing the planks up into ​the nose rocker. On top of that plate, on either side of the keel, slide the two smaller lift ​plates.

17. Now slide small wedges in between these layers to support and raise the planks into ​place. Start on the side of the board with the rocker inscription in the keel. Push wedges in ​until it’s as close as you can get it. It may not match the curve perfectly but if it comes up ​high enough to meet the full kick, you’re in good shape. More important than matching the ​rocker with the inscription is making sure the planks on either side of the keel match. Begin ​to slide wedges between the lift plates until side two match side one. Get down low and site ​the planks dead on to be sure the elevations are the same.

19. Now take your cedar nose blocking and glue and clamp that into place. Use ​Gorilla Glue here and be sure to add some glue to the sides where the blocking ​will come in contact with the keel. This will help to keep the planks lifted into ​shape. Notice the small indents in the sides. These accept the railbands, and give ​them a home to be glued into.

18. Take your internal templates that fit in ​between the first and second frame, and the last ​and second to last, and fit them into place. They ​should fit snugly along the keel and both ​adjacent frames. If something isn’t fully right, use ​your keel as the guide. Hold the template in ​place and trace a pencil line on the bottom ​planks. This represents the inside of the rail ​band.

20. Add some Gorilla Glue just outside of the line you traced, and run it up into the notch in the nose blocking. Slowly bend the ​rail band into position. It will likely be very stiff so take your time, clamping it down into shape as you work your way towards ​the end. Try your best to tuck the end right into the notch in the blocking and clamp it in place.

21. Don’t worry too much if the ply rail band breaks/ kinks or doesn’t nest perfectly into the nose or tail blocking notch. Once all ​the glues and epoxies cure and your top planks are on, you can clean up the outline and sand away anything that looks funny.

22. Treat the tail the same way. Then go back and add a clamp or two in between each frame to be sure the bottom planks are ​brought up snug to the rail band.

This is one of the hardest steps, laying the groundwork for the rest of the build. Your board is now locked ​into shape, the rocker is defined, outline looks good and you’re off and running. Nice work.

Internal Hardware Blocking

Be sure to read through this entire section before starting. This will help ensure ​you understand the whole process. This step takes approximately 45 minutes

1. CENTER FIN BLOCKING: If you’re working on a ​Sapling or Waterlog, your kit comes with a unique ​“glass-on” fin that designed into the board. While ​this gives you a permanent fin, and can add some ​steps to glassing, it eliminates the need to install fin ​box blocking and router for the fin box. If you plan ​to utilize that fin, no internal blocking is needed for ​your center fin.
   

2. If you’d prefer to add a center fin ​box, you’ll need to add blocking that is ​1 1/4” tall x ¾” wide x 12.5” long along ​the keel in the fin area. You should ​install this blocking with thickened ​epoxy. You can order a fin box and ​blocking from our online store.

Finbox blocking in one of our ​original contruction boards. While ​the keel looks different the blocking ​install is the same.

3. Clamping this blocking can be ​challenging since the keel is so tall, but ​a couple 3” spring clamps will do it. If ​you don’t have big enough clamps, we ​have found that simply adding the ​blocking with thickened epoxy and ​squeezing it into place, filleting the ​squeeze out it enough. No clamps ​necessary. In a future step, you will ​router into this blocking to install a fin ​box.

4. SIDE FIN BLOCKING: If you’re ​building the Mini Simmons, you’ll ​want to add the side bite blocking to ​the bottom planks using thickened ​epoxy, following the inscription ​locations on the bottom planks and ​epoxy in the blocking right on top of ​the inscriptions.

On this Sapling, the customer chose to go with the built-​in fin for the center fin (hence no blocking) and add side ​bite blocking for side bite fin boxes.

5. LEASH OPTIONS: Each kit is designed to have a built-in “glass-on” leash loop. You’ll notice there is a ​hole and a half circle inscription in the keel near the tail of the board. If you like the idea of a built in ​leash loop, you do not need to add any blocking for a leash cup. We’ll walk you through how to make ​use of this leash loop later. If you prefer to add a leash cup, can order the leash cup an blocking from ​our online store.

6. VENT BLOCKING: This is the one ​piece of blocking that does need to go ​into your board. It’s important that there ​be air space under the blocking, so the ​air inside the board can escape through ​the vent that will be installed in a future ​step. The easiest way to install this ​blocking is to glue it at an intersection of ​a frame and stringer. We usually add it ​near the tail of the board, but that is ​arbitrary. Keep the block up off the ​bottom planks so there is an air space. ​Use the stringer as a guide and keep the ​block close to flush with bottom of the ​stringer. This will allow plenty of air ​space. Glue the two sides of the blocking ​to the plywood frame and stringer and ​keep it flush or a little bit proud of the ​tops of the frame. You can shave it flush ​once the glue dries.

NOTE: Too low and there will be a gap between the planks and blocking. This will make installing the vent harder down the ​road. Too high and the blocks will keep the plank panels from touching the frames or potentially cause a bump in the deck.

Prepping for Top Panels

Be sure to read through this entire section before starting. This will help ensure you understand the whole process. This step takes approximately 2 hours

1. Unclamp all your blocking clamps, ​strongbacks, put wedges and ​strongbacks aside but keep them ​close by. You’ll need them soon.
2. We need to be sure that all surfaces ​are fair and flush and that nothing ​will prohibit your planks from ​coming in full contact with each ​frame and the rail bands. Use your ​FLI and mark the thickness of the ​board at the very nose. Remember ​this gauge marks the thickness of ​the board at the underneath side of ​the top planks. You can then take a ​pencil and draw a line from the ​ends of the rail bands to this mark ​at the nose. This should ​approximate where you have to ​come down to.

3. We find it helps to take a japanese ​saw and make vertical cuts down into ​the blocking along its entire width. The ​more cuts the easier the excess ​mayerial is to remove. Connect the line ​you’ve drawn with the top of frame ​one. Always err on the high side as it’s ​easier to go deeper later on.

4. Use a chisel to knock off the pieces of ​wood created by your saw cuts. Then ​use a block plane, hard block of wood ​with 80 grit and/or a chisel to smooth ​the surface out. This surface will never ​be seen, so while it’s needs to be clean ​and even side to side, a few extra deep ​gouges are not a problem.

5. Now do this same thing for the tail blocking.

6. You’ll notice that the top edge of the rail bands around ​the board is squared off and does not follow the taper of ​each frame. Take a small block plane or a hard block of ​wood and go around the board fairing the top edge of ​the rail bands so they match the angle coming off of ​each frame. This doesn't need to be perfect as the outer ​rail bands will hide this joint, but we do want the ​strongest bond we can get between the top panels and ​rail bands so do your best. You can use a straight edge ​(ruler or small piece of wood) to sight the rail band at ​each frame to check that the angles match.

7. Check each frame and make sure any tabs or splinters are knocked down.

8. Note that once the top planks are on, you will no longer be able to see where ​your hardware goes. It's important to measure out all internal blocking locations ​and draw a good map of everything. Take photos of the blocking with tape ​measures in place in case you lose the map. On this build type, we like to measure ​(and note on your sheet) from the very end of the keel at the tail. This keeps the ​measuring spot as a constant. If you measure from somewhere else that could get ​shaped away, your locations could be off. Note the measure spot and be sure to ​measure from the same spot when drilling for the hardware during the glassing ​process.

9.For the vent, since it’s just one hole, we like to measure to the center of ​the blocking vs. measuring the perimeter of the blocking. So, you’ll ​measure along the keel and then out to the centerline of the blocking from ​the centerline of the keel. This block will have two measurements, one ​from the end of the keel to the center of the blocking, and the other from ​the centerline of the keel to the center of the blocking.

10. For the sidebite blocking, measure where the blocking starts and ends, ​both in length and in width.

11. We also like to mark the outline ​of the rail band where there’s any ​irregularities. Low spots are most ​important so when it comes time ​to shape and blend the plank ​edges in with the rail bands, we ​fair out anything we can by ​keeping the planks slightly wider ​than the rail band. Run your eye ​around the board, focusing on the ​outside edge of the rail bands. Put ​a series of x’s on the rail band at ​any low spot.

Vacuum out the board so you don’t leave any dust or chips to rattle ​around later. Now you’re ready for tops.

Adding the Top Plank Panels

Be sure to read through this entire section before starting. This will help ensure you understand the whole process. This step takes approximately 1.5 hours

1. Adding the deck panels is much like adding the bottom ​panels, only that the glue is added first. Once again be sure ​you’re stand is level and true.
2. Before gluing, identify the inscriptions on the keel that ​indicate where the plank puzzle joint lines up (marked as ​“plank scarf”). Transfer this inscription to the opposite side to ​ensure the planks are lined up side to side. Now, lay the ​planks on the board, lined up with this inscription and be ​sure they are slightly bigger than the outline of the rail band. ​No need to clamp it all in place, you’re just doing a quick ​visual to make sure things look right before applying glue. ​Note that the planks will go on with the inscriptions down, so ​they are inside of the board.
3. Lay a bead of Gorilla Glue on the tops of each frame, the ​battens, rail bands as well as along the cedar keel locks ​alongside the keel. Also put some glue on any blocking that ​the planks will be contact with. That includes the nose and ​tail blocking, vent blocking etc.

4. Take each plank panel and carefully lay it on the board, lining ​up the puzzle joint with the inscription on the keel. Do your best ​to put it down in its correct location. Moving it after it’s down will ​cause some of the glue to smear and potentially lose bonding ​strength.

5. At the nose and tail, you’ll see there are tabs extending ​off the end of the planks. Carefully put a spring clamp ​here, pulling the plank ends together. This will keep the ​planks pulled tight against the keel as you add ​strongbacks and bend the planks down with the crown of ​the deck.

7. Push strongbacks through each hole in the ​keel above each frame and, before adding ​any spring clamps to the strongbacks, begin ​adding wedges under the strongbacks on ​each side of the keel (keep them spaced off ​the keel by about ½” so they don’t get glued ​down when glue squeezes out) just along the ​centerline of the planks. This will push the ​planks down to the frames and keep the ​planks from sliding when you do add ​clamps.

8. You’ll notice vertical lines cut into the keel at ​each frame running down from the strongback ​hole. These are depth indicator lines. They show ​you when the planks are pushed down correctly ​on the frames. You’re in good shape if the top of ​the planks are even with the bottom of each of ​these lines.

9. As you work your way down the board with the shims, you can ​gently begin clamping the panels down to the rail bands with ​spring clamps at each strongback. Add a spring clamp, pulling ​down the strong back to the rail, creating a tight joint between the ​panel and rail band. Your plank panels are now held down along ​the keel as well as down to the rail band at each frame.

10. Now slowly add more shims ​under the strong backs where ​needed, starting in the middle ​(widthwise) of the deck and ​working your way down the ​length of the board. These shims ​just need to be pushed in with a ​couple fingers. No need to use ​excessive force. If the deck feels ​like it’s hitting the frames, and ​you can’t feel it flexing with ​gentle pressure, you’re in good ​shape. Now your planks are ​pushed down onto the frame at ​the centerline, in the middle of ​the span and along the rail band.

11. Now add two spring clamps ​between each strongback, and ​around the nose and tail, ​ensuring a good bond between ​the planks and rail band all ​around the board. As a ​reminder, you'll use approx 50 ​clamps for this step for the ​Mini-Simmons, 75 for the ​Sapling and 100 for the ​Waterlog.

12. Check one more time that nothing is flexing, add a shim where needed, and you’re done! Your planks are now installed and ​clamped down. Give it at least 18 hours to dry.

Prepping for External Rail Bands

Be sure to read through this entire section before starting. This will help ensure you understand the whole process. This step takes approximately 30 minutes

1. The core of your board is done and all of the plywood parts are assembled. ​Nice work! Now it’s time to get ready to add the rails.
   

We typically use an edge tool till we’re 1/16” of planking (a ​strong fingernail thickness) extending past the rail band. This ​enables you to do some fine tuning to the outline shape with a ​block of wood and sandpaper in case the rail band has some ​wobbles or is asymmetrical from side to side.

2. First thing is to clean up the outline of the ​top and bottom planks. Use a block plane ​and shave away the material taking long ​passes around the board. A block plane is ​best because, when angled, it can rest it on ​the top and bottom planks at the same time ​while shaping away planks which helps ​things to come down evenly. Note the low ​spots on the rail band where you marked ​with a pencil. In these areas, the planks may ​want to run a little wide to fair out the shape ​where the rail band was unfair.

3. Whatever this shape is, the outer rail ​bands will just follow it, so now is the time ​to ensure the outline is fair and symmetrical. ​It’s ok if you need to shave into the plywood ​rail band a little bit to correct something in ​the shape. It’s 3/16” thick, so you have some ​wiggle room to correct imperfections.

4. In the perfect world, the rail bands and edges of the top and bottom planks are completely flush around the board. It would be a mistake to shape the top or bottom planks too far in, inside of the rail band as this would show as a little gap around the board. If anything, keep the plank edges slightly outside of the rail band so the final outside seams all look tight. The last thing is you may want to trim the keel at the nose and tail of the board. While it's designed for the cork to fit without trimming, small imperfections can cause the keel to be in the way.

5. Cutting out the cork bands- Use caution when ​handling the cork rail bands. They are fragile in ​their current state. Keep them laid out flat, ​preferably on a sheet of plywood or cardboard. ​You’ll notice that the ends of the band sections ​have circular (either hollow or round) cut outs. ​This helps you get a tight fit at the joints while also ​allowing for some rotation of each piece relative ​to the one next to it. It’s best to cut out the layers ​as you need them to keep them safer and less ​confusing. Layer 1 is first. Take care when cutting ​the fragile ends of the bands. If some break, don’t ​worry, we can easily fix any little gaps in the rails if ​they appear.

6. Look at each band and notice the coding marked on each one. There are layers one, two, three and four. And each is marked with nose, as well as ​a code telling you what joints line up with what. A goes with A, B goes with B and so on. You’ll notice that each layer has multiple pieces that make ​up its length. The longer the board, the more pieces in each layer.

7. Lay them out and ensure you’ve identified left and right pieces, and layers for each. You’ll also notice that there are small circular holes in some ​of the cork rail bands. These designate the exact location as it corresponds with a hole in the plywood railband.

Attaching Rail Bands

Be sure to read through this entire section before starting. This will help ensure you understand the whole process. This step takes approximately 3 hours of total working time (not including glue dry times)

1. We’ve designed these bands so that each layer is stepped, shorter in height than the one previous. When installed, these steps are shape ​indicators. Because of this, it’s important to install the cork railbands with the bottom of the board facing up. Each rail band layer should be ​glued on flush with the bottom planks of the board. This helps ensure that the steps work the way they’re designed from the deck down.
   

2. First step is identify each layer (1-4) and seperate out the pieces for each. Note the pieces ​marked as "Nose". From there, layout each individual length and note that end A meets up with ​A, B meets up with B and so on. Lay out each piece of layer one around the board.

3. There is a round hole in the first layer cork rail bands that aligns with a round hole in the ​plywood rail band. That is a great place to start and ensures that everything goes on precisely ​where it should. Note that the markings on the bands must go on the board facing out.

4. NOTE- MINI SIMMONS- Start by gluing on the first tail piece. Once it’s dry, sand off the ends ​so they blend in with the outline of the board. From there, start on either side, line up the ​circular holes in the cork with the corresponding holes in the rail band and you’re ready to go.

5. Start by loosely positioning the first cork rail band piece onto the board without any glue. ​Remember, if you're working with the board upside down, each rail band should be attached to ​the board upside down. Once you’ve bent it into shape and feel confident in its position, put a ​mark on the plywood railband at the end of the section you’re gluing so you know how far to ​apply glue/water.

6. While we've experimented with several ways to glue and hold the rail bands on (including using bicycle inner tubes stretches around the rails ​like rubber bands), we have found that 2" masking tape is the cheapest and easiest way to go as each piece covers more of the cork and adds a bit ​more even pressure. Even contact cement can work well if used appropriately but be careful to find the zero VOC kind. If you choose to try contact ​cement, we would always recommend putting the first layer of cork on the board with Gorilla Glue. Contact cement seems to to work ok when ​bonding cork to cork, but be sure to do your own experimenting to get the process dialed.

7. Be sure you have some masking ​tape handy for attaching the ​railbands, you can even rip a few ​pieces off so you're ready to apply. ​Best practive is to wear some ​disposable gloves with Gorilla Glue ​as it can be messy and it tends to ​stain your skin if it comes in ​contact. Apply Gorilla Glue to the ​cork rail band and spread it around ​so the entire surface is lightly ​covered. Use a spritz bottle or ​sponge and lightly dampen the ​accompanying surface on the ​board. Water helps the glue kick a ​little faster.

8. The bands are designed to be ​put on flush with the bottom ​planks. Each band is an ​extension of the plane of the ​planks. If you err in either ​direction, better to have the cork ​be slightly proud of the bottom ​plank surface and not below it. ​Begin by simply pushing the ​cork gently against the board. ​Gorilla Glue kicks off pretty ​quickly when water is used, so ​you’ll want to get the band ​attached and “clamped” into ​place within a 10 minutes or so ​of applying the glue.

9. Each band can be held on to the board with masking tape stuck to the planks. You don’t need a lot of pressure, contact between both ​surfaces is all you’re looking for. However, as the glue cures, it will foam and this foam can push the band away from the accompanying ​surface. So be sure you use adequate pressure. Grab the bottom and top of each piece of tape at the ends. Push the tape flat against the rail ​and gently pull the tape under and above the board and stick the tape to the planks. Do not tape once side first then the other as this can push ​or pull the rail up or down in the process.

10. It's important to note, as you move along the length of the board, spot ​check that the band is staying in its correct position and not sliding up or ​down relative to the bottom planks.

11. The glue will foam and expand out of the seam as it cures, don’t be alarmed. You will shape off the hardened foam later.

12. Continue around the board as you tape off each piece. You'll want to glue all the pieces of the layer you're working onto ​the board before taking a break, so the entire layer can dry together.

14. Add the next layer the same way, always taking care to line up ​the bottom of the cork even with the bottom planks.

13. When layer one feels dry, which can take 2 hours or so until the ​foam feels rigid, you'll want to take all the tape off and inspect the ​surface. The glue can expand just a bit at each joint between sections, ​so it can be helpful to take a hard block of wood with 80 grit ​sandpaper and lightly sand it so it's flush with the cork on either side.

15. On boards like the Sapling, we like to create a herring bone pattern as the rail bands overlap at ​the nose. Cut this angle using a sharp knife, or very carefully with a japanese saw with your cut ​stroke pushing or pulling against the board (not away from the board) to true up your angle. You ​can refine this angle with a sanding block after your cut. Cork is very fragile, so be careful not to ​use too much force with these cuts, as you could break off more than intended. Let one side run ​long and off the board, cut the band following the angle of the opposite rail. Add the opposite rail ​at the nose and let it run off the board overlapping the end of the band on the first side. Do this ​back and forth with all layers as the glue allows.

16. The final outside rail band also has an inscription that indicates the “apex” or widest part of the ​board. You will use this line in the final shaping steps

Removing The Excess Keel and ​Filling the Seams

Be sure to read through this entire section before starting. This will help ​ensure you understand the whole process.

This step takes approximately 90 minutes

1. Now that the top and bottom planks ​are attached to the frame of your ​board, it is strong and stable enough ​to cut away the excess keel.
   

NOTE: If you plan to install the “glass-​on” fin and leash loop, take great care ​not to cut way the fin base puzzle joint ​or leash loop inscription near the tail. ​Do your best to follow the cut lines on ​the keel that define these shapes. For ​now, you can simply cut on the outside ​of the lines and clean up the excess ​right to the line down the road with ​sandpaper and a block of wood.

2. There is no right or wrong way to ​remove the keel. Just take good care ​not to chew into or scuff up the ​plank panels. Due the thin veneers, ​sanding out small blemishes can ​lead to revealing multiple layers of ​ply which can detract from the look.

3. We like to make a series of ​vertical relief cuts with a Japanese ​saw at each strong back slot. This ​allows you to break away pieces as ​you go which helps you adjust your ​horizontal cuts.

4. Then start at the nose or tail and run your Japanese saw (a ​multi tool works great here if you have one) along the plank ​panels, just a little bit off of them from relief cut to relief cut. ​If your saw starts to dive down and get too close to the ​planks, stop the cut and make a new relief cut right there.

5. This may seem slow but really only takes 20 minutes or ​so to remove it all.

6. Once you’ve cut away as much as you can, use a sharp block plane or spokeshave to shave ​away any excess keel left behind, bringing it down just proud of the planks. Always keep the ​plane at a slight angle to the surface your cutting, especially when cutting more challenging ​material like plywood. This helps the blade slide through the material easier. Do your best not ​to cut into the plywood planks as the edge of the blade can dig in and scar the plywood. ​Sometimes these can be so deep, that sanding them away can not only create a low spot in the ​surface, but you could also reveal the layers of plywood. While mostly an aesthetic issue, it’s ​best to avoid exposing lower layers of ply. Do your best to sand these out but take caution if it’s ​too deep. If they can't be sanded and faired out, just give them a light sanding to be sure the ​surface is roughed up an not shiny. Once the glass and resin goes on during glassing, these low ​spots will essentially disappear.

7. Once you’re close, switch to a hard block of wood and some 120 grit sandpaper to get any ​final bits of keel left behind as it’s safer than edge tools.

8. You may notice that the seam between the planks and keel is open in spots. With the keel ​taken down, and faired into the planks, you can now tape off the area to keep the planks clean ​and fill that seam. We find epoxy mixed with sawdust into a peanut butter consistency is best, ​but if it’s small, you could likely use any sort of wood filler.

9. Push epoxy into the seam with a squeegee until it’s full, level with the planks. Clean up any ​squeeze out. Then remove the tape carefully. It’s easier to remove the tape while the epoxy is ​wet than after it’s dry and hard as the tape tends to tear.

Shaping Your Rails

Be sure to read through this entire section before starting. This will help ensure you understand the whole process.

This step takes approximately 2 hours

1. By this point, the steps in the cork railbands from the deck side should be pretty ​noticeable. Each layer is stepped down based on the final shape of the rail. The inside ​corner of each step indicates a point in the final shape, and these points connect down to ​the apex line inscribed in the outer band. It's important to keep in mind however that any ​number of small changes can affect these points, from slightly misaligning a layer to some ​miscutting of the cork when removing it from its sheet. So while the steps are guides, you ​still need to pay attention and adjust your plan as you go.
   

2. Using a sureform, Japanese style rasp (Shinto) or block of wood with 80 grit sandpaper wrapped around it (using a block or fairing board helps ​ensure things stay true and fair around the board. Sandpaper in your hand can cause dips and valleys), begin by shaping away all the material that ​is proud (bigger, taller) than the bottom planks. Clean up the rails on the bottom of the board so they are flush and create an extension of the ​bottom plank plane. Sand away the material until it is flush with the planks but take great care not to sand the planks at all. Too much sanding on ​the planks themselves will begin to reveal the alternating veneers beneath the top surface. If you use a rasp, it’s best to get close then switch to a ​block of wood and sandpaper as the sharp cutting surfaces can dig into the planks.

3. Pay attention to how well the tools are cutting. Depending on the angle of the tool to the material and how ​old (dull) the tool is, it can tend to tear away the material, leaving deep holes that may not sand away. If the ​sureform is too aggressive, use a block of wood with some 80 grit paper to start.

4. On the deck where there is crown, you will begin by shaping the rails at the matching angle of what the ​deck is doing where it comes into the rails. If the deck is more or less flat (parallel to the floor), you will sand ​flat. In the middle of the board where the planks are coming off the board at a steeper angle, you will shape ​the rails at that angle. It will be a changing bevel all around the board dictated by the angle of the deck where ​it hits the rails.

5. With the majority of the excess material removed, it’s now time to shape ​your rails. Note that the height of each band changes along the length of the ​board. Those steps, in combination with the apex line on the outer band, ​roughly indicates whether the rail is a down rail, 50/50, etc. In all cases, shape ​away the steps and no more.

6. Start with shaping the rails from the deck down to the apex line. With your ​rasp or block of wood and 80 grit, begin sanding away each step. Work your ​way down the length of the board consistently, back and forth so the whole ​rail comes down at the same time. If you work in small areas a time, you’re ​likely to develop high and low spots that get to be hard to sand out.

7. Keep in mind that you are shaping the final rails of your board, and should be creating radiuses between steps, and not ​flat surfaces. Be sure to roll your sanding block or tool of choice around the rail as you work, thus creating a round rail and ​not a series of flats. As you get close, put down the rasp and use the block and sandpaper to clean up the tool marks.

8. Run your hands over the rails to feel for any inconsistencies that need more attention. When you’re finished the rails ​should flow off the deck and down to the apex line. By establishing the apex line, when it’s time to shape the bottom rail, ​it’s much easier to shape the rail up to meet it.

9. Once the top rails feel good, it’s time to flip the board and shape the bottom rails. This part of ​the process is more freeform and you have some leeway as to how soft or hard you make your ​rails. We’re basically shaping the bottom of the rails and trying our best to roll the shape right into ​the apex line.

10. It’s generally accepted that the best way to create a round shape is by creating a series of flat ​bevels first. By creating bevels, we’re able to see lines and compare bevel widths from side to side ​to make sure we’re shaping each side symmetrically.

NOTE: The bevel we create will be widest in the middle of the board where the rail has the most ​volume. The fuller and thicker the rail, the wider the bevel. The bevel width will decrease at the ​nose and the tail where the board is thinner and/or anywhere the rails are harder.

11. Remember, we’re not creating a bevel to the apex line. If we did, after final shaping, the rail ​would be far too soft and we’d be forced to shape away the apex which would change the width ​of the board.

12. Keep in mind, there may be things that simply can’t be sanded out. Small tear outs in the cork, low steps that fall below ​the shape, etc. It’s important to know when to say when. If there is a step revealed that travels a good distance down the ​board, sand some more and try to get rid of it. If it’s a small area and the rail feels fair, rather than creating a low spot by ​sanding in one spot for too long, we can take care of it in the glassing process by filling it with resin. You’d rather have a ​nicely shaped, fair rail that feels great in your hands, with a few spots to fill, then a perfectly flawless looking rail with lots ​of dips and humps in it from chasing spots.

13. One other thing to keep in mind. The glue doesn’t sand the same way the cork does. It’s harder and tends to leave ​lengthwise ridges along the board where the seams are. The block of wood that you wrap your sandpaper around helps to ​keep things consistent, but you won’t be able to fully sand away these lines. We’ll do our best to get rid of them in glassing.

14. At the very nose, where the board is thin, the steps may be very slight. Some freeform shaping in this area may be ​required. But if you use the steps as a guide for as much of the board as possible, the free form shaping will be limited to ​very small areas, though it’s still best to keep an eye on the apex line and let that be the widest part of the board in order to ​keep some consistency with the rest of the rail around the board.

15, As a reminder, you may inadvertently shape into the deck plywood where the rail bands meet the board. Some ​removal in this area is ok to get things to flow and feel fair but note that shaping too far into the plywood will reveal ​internal layers which could detract from the overall clean look of the ply

Adding the "Glass-on" Fin and Leash Loop

Note that if you choose to add the “glass-on” fin and leash loop, now is the time to get this started.

1. If you left some excess keel outside of the etched-in lines, take a few minutes to clean things up and bring it right to ​those lines. If using a handsaw, I found the easiest way was to make a series of cuts down the keel to just above the ​inscription. Better to cut big and leave it taller rather than making it too short. You can sand it smooth later. Just try not ​to make it any smaller than the inscription shows.
   

2. Then you cut away the parts and sand the bump smooth. The rest of the keel is shaped and sanded down flush with the ​board. This seems like a pain, but it’s just a few minutes work with a hard block of wood and some 80 grit.

3. BUILDING AND SHAPING THE FIN: The fin includes three layers of ​plywood. Take the center piece with the puzzle joint, add a little glue ​around the puzzle joint edges, and slide it into place.

4. Next, use a ruler and measure the etching on the one side ​and transfer that to the other side so the outside fin pieces ​are symmetrical. Just a couple marks should be all you ​need.

5. Add some glue to one side of ​each of the outer fin pieces and ​clamp them to the inner fin in the ​correct locations, in line with the ​inscriptions. Add as many clamps ​as you can.

6. Note that if there is a little gap where the side fin pieces hit the planks, don’t worry. This can fill with resin and fin rope when the fin is glassed.

7. Let this dry for a few hours. Then, before shaping, step back from the board and sight the board and fin. Make sure the fin is perpendicular to the board, standing straight up off the bottom planks. If there is a small twist (a result of a twist in the keel or in the fin material itself), you can shape it out during the foiling process. If the twist is too much to handle that way, you can always cut off the fin, sand that area flat, and glass on a regular fin.

8. Just like your rails, the step defined by the layers of plywood will help you foil the fin correctly. By reducing the size of the side pieces, we are saving you time in removing material and helping you foil the fin as it’s designed.

9. Identify the center veneer and mark it with a pencil. This will remind you where the centerline is and helps ensure you don’t sand away the outside shape of the fin.

10. We like to use a rasp, rat tail file or even a hard block ​of wood with 60 grit sandpaper to shape the fin. Using ​the steps, foil the fin by blending the steps away. Use the ​wood layers in the fin as indicators from side to side to ​be sure both sides are shaped the same way. This is a ​great visual reference and quick side to side guide. Use ​the center veneer in the center fin piece as a centerline ​of the fin.

11. Once foiled and smooth, sand the fin with 120 grit. From here, we’ll be ​adding glass layers to each side to ensure it’s strong and sealed.

Final Sanding

This step takes approximately 30 minutes

1. Give your rails a light sanding with 120 grit to remove any tear outs or small marks from the more ​aggressive steps. Be sure the shaping you’ve done is sanded fair and smooth.
   

2. The planks on the board should be just about perfect so minimal sanding is needed there. Just take some ​time to be sure:

• The keel is even with the planks. Trust your hands.
  
• All glue and glue stains is sanded away
  
• Puzzle joints are even and fair from side to side
  

Prepping To Glass The Deck Of Your Board

Glassing the fin and rails on a PlyBeam Kit is a bit different from our Original Construction. Be sure to check out our full glassing manual found ​here. Then read the following and inset in the appropriate places during glassing. Because our glassing manual doesn’t include glassing on a leash ​loop or fin, or glassing over cork rails, we’ll cover the extra steps here.

1. Take masking or packing tape (we like to have 2.5”- 3” of ​tape width around the board) and run it around the bottom ​of the board sticking it down to the planks just inside of the ​cork, leaving any gaps between the first cork rail band and ​the plywood planks exposed. The sealer coat will be used ​to fill these gaps and helps eliminate air escaping during ​glassing and causing bubbles to form under the glass.
   

2. Do this same thing on the deck of the board, however 1” wide masking ​tape is all you should need to use. This helps keep the planks clean from ​epoxy and uniform in color prior to the lam coat.

3. With the deck of the board facing up, prep the main layer of the glass ​for the deck of the board following the primary instructions in the ​glassing manual. The big difference with this board is the laps will be all ​the way around the rail. So, you need to be sure to cut the glass so it can ​hit the outside edge of the blue tape under the rail.

4. Pull the glass over the board, and with the ​excess hanging off the board, carefully trim ​the excess so as to leave enough so the edge ​lands somewhere beyond the outer edge of ​the blue tape. Our goal is to have the glass ​bonded to the board to the tape line. The ​extra width of tape is just to add some ​protection in case the glass goes too far or if ​your squeegee mistakenly goes too far.

5. If you plan to use the built in leash loop, ​you’ll want to cut a tiny slit in the glass so ​the leash loop can come up in that space ​and the glass can still lay smooth on the ​board.

6. Now fold the glass back onto the deck of ​the board away from the rails. Fold the ​sides up first, then the nose and tail.

Sealer Coating The Rails & Lam'ing The Deck

1. We have found it’s best to pre coat the rails prior to your first lam ​coat. This coat of epoxy can be brushed on and helps to seal and ​saturate the rails as well as fill any voids that you couldn’t sand out.

2. Mix up some epoxy (6 ounces for a 7’6” board) and mix in a small ​amount (1-2 tablespoons) of cabosil into the mix if you have it. This ​thickens it just a bit so it hangs onto the rails better and fills gaps.

3. Using a disposable bristle brush, coat the rails, brushing the ​epoxy out smoothly on the surface of the rails. Be sure to really ​brush out the underside of the rails. Any drips that form could ​cause issues for the next steps. You want the rails covered but not ​thick and drippy.

LAMINATING THE DECK OF THE BOARD/ GLASSING THE LEASH LOOP:​​​​​​

4. Wait a couple hours till the sealer coat is partially cured, then peel the masking ​tape on the deck of the board only. DO NOT remove the tape the bottom side of ​the board. The glass will lap all the way around the rail and overlap the tape on ​the opposite of the board. The tape on the opposite side will become the line you ​will cut the glass to. This allows the rails to be double wrapped in glass which ​adds strength to the rails. Now you can carefully unfold the glass so it’s once ​again draped over the rails.

5. Once again, be sure the leash loop is pushed up through the slit you cut in your ​glass.

6. Lam coat your board as per the manual.

7. To add some strength to the leash loop, cut a short length of fin rope, gently ​soak it in the remainder of the epoxy in your cup, and lay it down the middle, up ​and over the leash loop. In order to hold it in place and down into the curve, we ​cut small pieces of your 4 ounce glass from scrap and lam that on the board over ​the fin rope. This glass may get sanded away later, so it doesnt matter if it's a bit ​messy, but it will help to neaten up the fin rope and hold it in place for now.

8. If you do a hot coat a few hours later, just brush right over this leash loop area.

Sanding/Gloss Coating Your Leash Loop

1. After the opposite side of the board is lam’d, as part of the sanding process, ​use 120 grit and carefully sand away anything that's unfair over the top of the ​leash loop and on either side. Be careful not to sand too much off the top. The ​glass strands that go over the top are important for overall strength. You’re ​really just trying to smooth and fair the area while ensuring most of the glass ​strands stay in place op top of the plywood leash loop. Everything should fair ​in smoothly into the surface of the board.
   

2. When you gloss coat your board, just brush right over the area. This will help ​to smooth out the leash loop as a whole and will add another coating of epoxy to ​the plywood itself. Feel free to brush a few coats of epoxy on this area as you’re ​doing other things. The more resin on the plywood, the better.

3. When you sand and polish the board, be careful not ​to polish the plywood loop and remove the resin. If ​you do, just give it another coat.

4. You may need to carefully drill out the hole to clear ​any resin that cured in there. Then put a rope through ​and you’re off and running.

Glassing the Bottom of your Board & Fin

1.If you chose to go with the glass-on wood fin provided with your kit, cut 4 pieces of glass that match the shape of the fin and extend 1/4” ​or so bigger in all directions. On the bottom edges, the glass pieces should extend down onto the board.

2. There will be two layers on each side. The inner layer should extend onto the surface of the board by one ​inch. The second (outer) layer should extend onto the board by 1.5”. This allows the glass thickness to taper into ​the board making it easier to sand and blend into the board.

3. Also cut two lengths of fin rope that are about 1.5” longer than the base of the fin itself. Tape one end with ​masking tape to the keep the glass strands together, but fold over the end of the tape so you can remove it ​when adding to the board.

4. Now put that all aside and handle with care.

5. When it comes time to glass the bottom of the board, you need to cut a slit in the glass where the fin is ​located. Measure the base length of the fin and measure from the tail of the board to where the trailing edge of ​the fin starts. Measuring in from the tail end of the glass, start your measurement 2” in from the end, which will ​be the amount that can hang off the board. Measure from that point forward to where the fin starts and put a ​mark, then put another mark further up to represent the forward end of the fin.

6. Using sharp scissors, cut a slit in the centerline of the glass from point to point. Err on the big side, maybe ¼” ​to ½” longer than the base of the fin to be sure it fits over the fin. Test fit to be sure it lays down flat on the ​board and that the glass still hangs off the back of the board as it should all the way around the board.

7. Tape off the rails on the deck of the board like you did before so you have a clean place to cut off the excess ​glass. We usually do this around the area where the rails meet the planks. Now, laminate your board as the ​glassing manual instructs.

8. Once that is done, sometime in the next 2-4 hours (can be done right away if your careful) while the lam coat is still “green” (not fully cured), ​you’ll want to glass the fin.

9. Mix up appropriate amount (4ounces or so should be enough) of epoxy. Soak the fin rope in the bucket to ensure it’s fully saturated and clears ​out.

10. Lay each length of fin rope along the base of the fin on each side and once in place, pull the masking tape off. This fin rope creates a ramp ​(think of a filet when caulking your bathtub) for the glass to transition smoothly from the boards planks up onto the fin itself.

11. With the rope strands in place, use your fingers (gloves on) to smoothly push it into the corner. Now use a disposable brush to coat the board ​and fin in preparation for laminating the glass.

12. Lay the glass layers onto the fin and down onto the board, starting with the smaller piece. Once the first (inner) layer has cleared out, lay the ​outside layer on. The glass should saturate out, and lay smoothly on the planks, over the fin rope and up onto the fin.

13. Use your gloved fingers and smooth out the corners, working any trapped air out from under the fin rope ​and glass fabric. It's best to work the air bubbles from the middle out, so use two fingers and start in the ​middle of the fin and slide your fingers out towards both edges of the fin, working excess resin and air out to ​the ends.

14. Remove any excess resin on the fin and board, just like you did from the lam coat. You want the glass ​saturated and cleared out, but as little shiny glossy spots as possible. Pools of epoxy can cause the glass to ​"float" off the surface. This could cause you to sand through the glass a little bit easier during that step. Once ​it's cured, you can cut away excess glass and sand to blend all the layers smoothly into the board.

15. Follow the Glassing instructions for the remainder of the process!